It was the best of times... it was the worst of times... A Tale of Two Cities, wasn't it? Charles Dickens.
Let's talk about Cincinnati and Cleveland and the April Food and Wine Magazine, wine writer Lettie Teague.
Yesterday I got the following information:
CINCINNATI
2001 KINKEAD RIDGE CABERNET FRANC "BEST VALUE"
A small group from the Cincinnati Chapter of the American Wine Society recently blind tasted eight Cabernet Francs from France, California, and North Carolina.
In a field of eight wines, the 2001 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc was voted "BEST VALUE" against six wines from France and California, and a Biltmore Reserve.
It finished in the top three in "BEST QUALITY" behind two $40 Napa wines, and bested the French entries. Thea Teich, who relayed this information to me, said it was fascinating because it was one of the oldest wines and it really held up, while the ones from France just died. Plus it was right up there with wines 2 or 3 times the price. The California wines were 2005 Dare (Viader) at $40 and 2005 Titus at $40. The two French Cabernet Francs from Chinon were 2005 La Pensee de Paulus and 2006 Domaine de la Chantelleuserie Bougueril. The cost for the Kinkead Ridge first vintage wine? $15. We met Delia Viader at an event (I forgot, it was Fleur de Fetes or Gourmet Sensation), and she tasted a later vintage of our Cabernet Franc and made a point of telling us how impressed she was.
A reminder, this was our first vintage. This will give you an idea how the wines are holding up.
Now before you read on, I want to remind you that two Kinkead Ridge wines have made the Top 100 Exciting Wine Finds in the World List by Tom Stevenson, British wine writer; including our Cabernet Franc. Hmmm. last time I checked, this was an OHIO red wine. And... this same wine won a DOUBLE GOLD medal at an American Wine Society Competition. And one of our Cabernet Sauvignons won a gold at another AWS competition... only 15 gold medals for Cabernet that year. And our 2005 Petit Verdot was rated 2007 Wine of the Year by the highly respected Ann Boucher of Columbus Ohio.
So much for the Food and Wine issue article that says "Why do Ohio Reds Taste So bad".... I guess neither Lettie or Jim have sought out or tasted, outstanding Ohio reds. To some, it sounds like an oxymoron "outstanding Ohio reds".
You can check out the results for the Cabernet Franc tasting at http://www.KinkeadRidge.com/htm/whats_new.htm
CLEVELAND
Read it and weep. The very fine national magaine, Food and Wine, published a story from Lettie Teague, a New York wine writer, who was hosted in Cleveland by her friend Jeff.
This is an excerpt from the April food and wine magazine about northeast Ohio. Full link at
http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/a-wine-snobs-favorite-new-city-scene
"After lunch, we drove eastward to visit a few wineries. Jeff particularly wanted to visit South River Vineyard, a winery in a former church. “I’ve heard they make a pretty good Riesling,” he said. But the people at South River had just refinished their floor, and the wines smelled like varnish (and tasted quite sweet).
Down the road at Debonné Vineyards (“Ohio’s largest estate winery”) it was much the same story: Though the air was clearer, the wines were as sweet. “Ohio has a history of sweet wines,” said Debonné’s winemaker, Ed Trebets, a native Clevelander (who turned out to create the wines at South River, too). Debonné makes a wide range of wines and even brews its own beer. The simple, clean and not-sweet 2007 Grand River Chardonnay was my favorite by far, though Jeff liked the (very sweet) Vidal ice wine best. Neither one of us was keen on the red wines, especially the Pinot Noir and Syrah blend—a combination that would make a Burgundian blanch.
“Why do Ohio reds taste so bad?” Jeff asked as we drove away. (He actually used a stronger phrase.) There were many possible reasons, I said, ticking them off: bad winemaking, the wrong grapes, the wrong soil, the wrong vineyard techniques. I was still enumerating them when Jeff stopped at Marathon gas to fill up the tank. Inside the station were bottles of Ohio ice wine, wedged between the candy and the motor oil. “I could have bought my wine here,” Jeff exclaimed."
In the past, I have emailed Food and Wine editors, thinking they might be interested in the renaissance occurring in the wine industry in southern Ohio, a historic viticultural area; but I never heard from them.
My response to Food and Wine was something like this:
"I read with great dismay your article by Lettie Teague in the April issue about Cleveland. Despite the long history of winemaking in northern Ohio (which actually occurred after fungal diseases hurt the southern Ohio wine industry), something very exciting is happening in the Ohio River Valley. We grew Pinot Noir in Oregon for over 10 years. In 1999 we planted our all vinifera vineyard east of Cincinnati on a southeast facing slope draining to the Ohio River... on soil similar to St. Emilion. Two of our wines have made the Top 100 Exciting Wines in the World list by British wine writer Tom Stevenson, including our Cabernet Franc. Our 2004 Cabernet Franc received a Double Gold medal at the international AWS wine competition. Our 2005 Petit Verdot was named 2007 Wine of the Year by Ann Boucher, Columbus, Serendipity, and Cutting Edge Manager. We have mentored five new wineries in the area, and wineries throughout Ohio are garnering gold medals in international competitions. We have been wildly successful in Cincinnati, Dayton and Columbus; Cleveland is another story, there is a lot of prejudice against Ohio wine in the fine wine shops and restaurants. Our Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc and Petit Verdot ripen beautifully down here, harvested as late as the end of October. Kudos to Fire Restaurant in Shaker Square for supporting us and our red wines for multiple years.
To publish a question like "Why are Ohio reds so bad?" and not do a little investigative reporting is careless at best. Just Google "Ohio vinifera" and see what turns up."
Look, I'm am a born and bred New Yorker. Are we dealing here with the innate prejudice that New Yorkers have, a distaste for all things non-coastal? The Wine Spectator is another magazine that in my memory has only done one "Wine Across America" issue in the last ten years. Pour our wines blind, and people are amazed. Tell them the wines are from Ohio, and the prejudice kicks in.
We have been very successful in Cincinnati, Dayton and Columbus, and our wines are in the finest restaurants and wine shops. Cleveland has been very difficult from the beginning because many serious wine drinkers in Cleveland won't touch an Ohio wine with a ten foot pole. In addition to Fire Restarant, other restaurants supporting local growers are JeanRoBistro, the Dilly Deli, and Chef Julie Francis at Nectar in Cincinnati and Dragonfly, Rosendales, and Z Cucina in Columbus. Also kudos in Cleveland to Chucks Fine Wines in Chagrin Falls. We also have sold wine in Cleveland to Whole Foods on Cedar Blvd., Joan Pistone, Pat O'Briens, and Colonial Beverage to a lesser degree.
Sure, there's sweet wine in Ohio. There are dry wines as well. We are producing internationally recognized, estate vinifera wines, as are some wineries up north, a special tip of the hat to Ferrante, Markko and a few others.
All I can say is, Cleveland, Jeff, Lettie and America: WAKE UP! Not all Ohio reds are bad wines. We personally are producing wines that stand with any in the world for value and quality.
At age 61, Ron and I have a limited amount of time to make a difference. Currently, Ron has a knee problem. He is limping like a 90 year old, but still is out there from dawn to dusk caring for his vines. This is why I get so furious with people who don't understand how much we care about quality. And why I get so furious that people are judging Ohio wines from a limited geographical sample.
If you are a fan of what we are attempting to accomplish down here, i.e. grow world class vinifera grapes for wine, please contact www.foodandwine.com with your comments.You will have to scroll down to the Contact Us section.
Your friendly wine blooger,
Nancy Bentley
Owner/Managing Partner
Kinkead Ridge Winery